"ORLANDO , a quiet farming town in 1970, now has more visitors than any other place in the state. The reason, of course, is Walt Disney World , which, along with Universal Studios Escape, Sea World and a host of themed attractions, pulls more than 25 million people a year to a previously featureless plot of scrubland. Few people head to Orlando proper, choosing instead one of the countless motels along Hwy-192 , fifteen miles south, or International Drive , five miles southwest. Despite enormous expansion over the last decade, the town itself remains free of the commercialism that surrounds it."

You have to be very determined to get to the theme parks without a car, but it can be done. Local Lynx buses (tel 407/841-8240, ) converge on the downtown Orlando terminal between Central and Pine streets; route #50 heads to Walt Disney World, but it's a somewhat patchy service and takes about an hour. The pricier Mears Transportation Service runs private shuttle buses (tel 407/423-5566) between the main accommodation areas, the airport and Walt Disney World, Sea World and Universal Studios ($10-12 round-trip) - phone at least a day ahead to be picked up, or check at your hotel or hostel. Taxis are the best way to get around at night - try Yellow Cab Co. (tel 407/699-9999). Along International Drive, between Sea World Orlando and Universal Studios, the I-Ride trolley service (tel 407/354-5656) operates every few minutes daily from 7am to midnight, costing 75¢ one way. The immense convention center , several blocks in length, stretches along International Drive amid the attractions.

Downtown and its environs hold the pick of the locals' eating haunts; most visitors, however, head for International Drive's inexpensive all-day buffets and gourmet restaurants. There's a strict embargo on taking food into any of the theme parks, where the best restaurants are in Epcot's World Showcase - head for Japan, Morocco or Mexico.


Bahama Breeze 8849 International Drive tel 407/248-2499. Decent Caribbean food in an upbeat atmosphere.
The Globe 25 Wall St Plaza tel 407/422-1669. This is a perfect place for inexpensive Nouveau American snacks and light meals, such as pan-seared salmon salad and veggie burgers. Open 24 hours.
Le Coq au Vin 4800 S Orange Ave tel 407/851-6980. French restaurant with surprisingly low prices for top-notch food.
Magic Mining Company 7763 W Hwy-192 tel 407/396-1950. Colorful steak and seafood mountain-themed joint.
Ming Court 9188 International Drive tel 407/351-9988. An exceptional Chinese restaurant, serving delicious potstickers, dim sum and fragrant noodles, is not as costly as you might expect.
Numero Uno 2499 S Orange Ave tel 407/841-3840. Inexpensive, downtown Cuban restaurant.
Race Rock Supercharged Restaurant 8986 International Drive tel 407 248-9876. A race-car-themed restaurant with auto memorabilia on walls serves such eclectic American choices as burgers, milkshakes and malts at super-reasonable prices.
TuTu Tango 8625 International Drive tel 407/248-2222. This lively restaurant is done out like an artist's studio. Painters and sculptors work as you eat superb pan-Asian, New World and Mediterranean food, including seared tuna sashimi or black bean soup.
White Wolf Café 1829 N Orange Ave tel 407/895-5590. The down-to-earth café/antique store is known for creative sandwiches and generous salads.