The historical centre around Sultanahmet is increasingly well-served by decent restaurants , although there's always been a higher concentration of eateries around Taksim and Beyoglu; the Balik Pazar, behind the Çiçek Pasaji off Istiklâl Caddesi, is a great area for meze , kebabs and fish, while Çiçek Pasaji itself offers similar fare but is now somewhat overpriced and touristy. Snack options - which abound in all areas - vary from the dubious fish sandwiches served off boats by fishermen in Kadiköy, Karaköy and Eminönü, to kokoreç (skeins of sheep's innards) sold from booths in less salubrious areas.

Afacan , Istiklâl Cad 331, Beyoglu. Very reasonably priced lunch stop with an excellent take on Turkish home cooking and some of the best stews in town. There's a second branch in the building next to Istiklâl Cad's only mosque.

Alem , Nevizade Sok, Balik Pazari, Beyoglu. Newish place serving meze , fish and kebabs, with a huge upstairs dining room. Popular with the younger crowd.

Boncuk , Nevizade Sok, Balik Pazari, Beyoglu. Old, traditional restaurant, still serving some of the best food on this street despite the ever-growing competition.

Çati , Istiklâl Cad, A. Apaydan Sok 20, Baro Han, floor 7, Beyoglu (tel 0212/251 0000). Open for 22 years and still popular among Istanbul's intelligentsia. Mixed Turkish and international cuisine plus assorted live music. Good views of the city lights. Closed Sun.

Cennet , Divan Yolu Cad 90. Serves only two dishes: Gözleme (fried pastries with various fillings) and Manti (Turkish ravioli), consumed from cushions on the floor to a backdrop of traditional decor, accompanied by live music. Immense fun and reasonably priced.

Darüzziyafe , Sifahane Cad 33. Reasonably priced Ottoman cuisine in a Sinan-designed annexe to his masterpiece mosque. Live traditional music most evenings.

Degustasyon , Balik Pazar, Beyoglu. Run by Turkey's only TV chef and offering unusual variations of Turkish dishes. Boasts an adjacent wine bar.

Doy Doy , Sifa Hamami Sok 13, off Küçükayasofya Cad at the Hippodrome end. Newly re-decorated but still offers good, cheap kebabs, pide and stews.

Dubb Indian Restaurant , Incili Çavus Sok 10, Sultanahmet. Offers a reasonable but vaguely Turkish take on Indian standards in neatly restored Ottoman house.

Haci Abdullah , Sakizaga Cad 19, Beyoglu. A legend among locals, offering stunning home cooking at very reasonable prices. Packed at weekends. No alcohol.

Ilhamenin Yeri , Osmanzade Sok 6, Ortaköy. Last of the real meyhanes in this former quiet fishing village turned night-time haunt. Excellent meze , kebabs and fish.

Kör Agop (Blind Hagop), Ördekli Bakkal Cad 7-9, Kumkapi. Third-generation Armenian-owned joint in this block of fish restaurants. One of the oldest in town, still offering great fish dishes, meze and salads.

Nature and Peace , Büyükparmakkapi Cad 21, Istikal Cad, Beyoglu. Vegetarian place three blocks away from Taksim, offering lentil köfte and other veggie favourites.

Nizam Pide , branches on Büyükparmakkapi Sok and Kalyoncu Kullugu Sok, Beyoglu. Two branches serving excellent pide , beans and rice. Cheap and very popular, especially after the bars close.

Padaliza , at the entrance to Cebeci Han in the Kapali Çarzi. Fairly new but easily the best eating establishment in the bazaar, offering reasonably priced Ottoman specialities.

Rumeli Café , Ticarethane Sok 8, Divan Yolu Cad. Chic establishment offering fish, pasta and very interesting takes on Ottoman cuisine.

Sehzade Mehmet Efendi , Sehzade Camii, Sehzadebasi Cad. Wonderfully atmospheric restaurant located in the medrese of the Sehzade mosque. Excellent value pide , kebabs and stews, and exemplary service.

Türkistan Asevi , Tavukhane Sokagi 36. Behind the Blue Mosque, a conventional Ottoman house specializing in central Asian cuisine with a good set menu. You'll be asked to take off your shoes.

Yeni Iskele , Iskele Sok 17, Yeniköy. Lively Bosphorus fish restaurant with less common specialities such as fishcakes and stuffed squid.