The two nightlife destinations in Dallas have to be offbeat Deep Ellum - where among the trendy clubs the innovative Pegasus Theater , 3916 Main St (tel 214/821-6005, ), puts on avant-garde and independent plays - and the ever-so-slightly gritty Lower Greenville . Elsewhere nightlife is pretty formal. Mainstream attractions include the Dallas Symphony Orchestra at the showpiece Morton H. Meyerson Symphony Center (tel 214/670-3600, ), and the Dallas Black Dance Theater at 2627 Flora St (tel 214/871-2376, ). In June and July, free Shakespeare in the Park performances are held in Samuell-Grand Park, east of downtown near the intersection of I-30 and Hwy-87 (tel 214/559-2782, ).

For a real Wild West night out, head to the Mesquite Championship Rodeo , well out of town on I-635 at Military Parkway (April-Oct Fri & Sat 8pm; $10-28; tel 972/285-8777, ).

Full listings can be found in Thursday's Dallas Observer ( ), Friday's Dallas Morning News ( ), or the events information line (tel 214/571-1301).

Adair's 2624 Commerce St tel 214/939-9900. A country-music bar that attracts both old-timers and students with its hard-edged honky-tonk music.

Bar of Soap 3615 Parry Ave tel 214/823-6617. Groovy pub-cum-laundromat on the outskirts of Deep Ellum, opposite Fair Park. Open daily 3pm-2am, no cover.

Club Clearview 2803 Elm St tel 214/939-0077. Four-in-one Deep Ellum warehouse; a cool dance club, blacklight room, endless bars, and big touring acts, plus a great rooftop deck.

Club DaDa 2720 Elm St tel 214/744-DADA. Famed Deep Ellum club where Edie Brickell and the New Bohemians began their days. Open mic on Sundays, live bands and club nights.

Muddy Waters 1518 Greenville Ave tel 214/823-1518). Generally acknowledged as the city's best down-home blues bar, with live acts at weekends.

Sons of Hermann Hall 3414 Elm St tel 214/747-4422. Delightfully old-school country venue where the Texan masters come to play as well as respectful young outfits channelling the masters.

Tejano West 6532 E Northwest Highway tel 214/361-6083. A welcome break from the sometimes over-busy Deep Ellum scene, with great music and a laid-back, festive crowd.

Trees 2709 Elm St tel 214/748-5009. Deep Ellum warehouse turned auditorium, popular with up-and-coming indie rock bands.