Chicago's O'Hare International Airport (tel 773/686-2200, ), the national HQ for United, American and several other airlines, is seventeen miles northwest of downtown Chicago. It is connected to the center by 24-hour CTA (Blue Line) trains from the station under Terminal 4, which take around forty minutes and cost $1.50. Midway Airport , smaller than O'Hare but used by an increasing number of domestic airlines, is eleven miles southwest of downtown; take one of CTA's Midway (Orange Line) trains, which take thirty minutes, or the #99M Midway Express bus (weekday rush hours only). Taxis into town from O'Hare cost around $25-30 (there's also a shared ride program with a flat rate of $15), and take thirty minutes to an hour. From Midway the fare is about $25 (shared rides are $10) and the journey time twenty to forty minutes. Another option is Continental Air Transport's express bus and van service between the airports and downtown hotels ($20 from O'Hare, $15 from Midway; tel 312/454-7799, ). The highways are often clogged, so allow at least an hour for the trip from either airport.

Chicago is the hub of the nationwide Amtrak rail system, and almost every cross-country route passes through Union Station (tel 312/558-1075) at Canal and Adam streets, west of the Loop. Greyhound and a number of regional bus companies pull into the large 24-hour bus station at 630 W Harrison St, three blocks southwest.

Arriving in Chicago by road , racing towards the gleaming glass towers of the Loop, can be memorable. Bear in mind, though, that traffic on the expressways to and from downtown can be bumper-to-bumper during rush hours. Parking can also be a problem. Meters are expensive (25¢ for 15min) and usually have a two-hour limit. Check street signs for additional restrictions, which are rigidly enforced - violations may result in your car being towed and impounded. Perhaps the best place to leave a car in the downtown area is in the garage under Grant Park at Columbus Drive and Monroe Drive ($13 for 24hr; tel 312/742-7644), close to the east side of the Art Institute